Stefano Pilati has been a free agent, technically, since he departed his role of head of design for Ermenegildo Zegna Couture last February. In the 16 months since, he’s floated by under the radar, as do many creative directors between houses, but was immediately followed by industry chatter that he’d head to a Lanvin, a house to which Bouchra Jarrar was later been appointed. Now, though, it looks like Pilati is readying for a return to the table: On Friday, he began uploading looks from a genderless, seasonless and democratic “test” collection to his Instagram Story, telling WWD that they could be the first step toward “something to come in the near future, something more developed.” (A representative for Pilati was not immediately available for comment.)
The all-black designs — thus far comprising 16 looks and one close-up — are categorized under the title “Random Identities,” which WWD reports will be the brand’s name if this “test” range is successful. In silhouette, the pieces are similar to what defined Pilati’s tenure at Zegna, with some structural suiting and other more clearly streetwear-heavy items, like the now-ubiquitous puffer and bomber jackets. That the collection is genderless is also a testament to the designer’s abilities: At Zegna, he oversaw both the menswear collections as well as Agnona, the company’s women’s brand, and previously, he held the top design role at Yves Saint Laurent, just before Hedi Slimane came on board in 2012.
According to WWD, the looks are inspired by Pilati’s friends in Berlin, where he’s now based, and are simply prototypes that won’t be put into production. Though if he’s trying to drum up excitement for this project, however it may come to fruition, it’s working.
Click through the gallery below to see Pilati’s collection of “Random Identities.”